Wednesday, September 8, 2010

"How Do You Save a Wave?"

How do you save a wave? This is an innocently snide question often heard when I tell people that I work for Save The Waves. After many years I still don't know exactly what the answer is, but surfer & writer Steve Pezman has an excellent argument for why I aim to save a wave:

"[Timothy Leary] said surfers were the perfect example of be here now. The tube ride in which you’re living for that exact instant on a continuum of time where the tube is folding over your head, where your wake is disappearing into the back of the wave, your footprints are being washed from the sand...

"He also said If you believed in that you had to work to lead man to that goal. You couldn't just lay back and passively let other people carry the challenge and fight for that, you had to actually be a proponent of it and be a firm advocate of it and work hard to try and lead man to that place. So I began to see mankind as a tribe whose participation in the total social order was to carry that message and talk about the importance of maintaining interface between the land and ocean and helping people to realize life was not about acquisition of wealth so much but was about the dance." 

>> Read the full text of this piece by Steve Pezman here