Tuesday, April 24, 2007

Cold and Barreling... Rights?!

On Friday I met Timmy Turner and friends at the airport. We drove for two days and found lots of flat surf spots, camping and cooking potatoes and vegetables over the camp fire. Paddling out and surfing tiny waves and coming in to stoke up the fire and dry out.

On the third day I took the above photo. It is barreling and it is a right, and it looks like this when the rest of Chile is completely flat. It's really remote from anywhere, and the local fishermen told us surfers have never been there before. I can't remember where it is, it's either north or south of here. But I do remember that it's sort of cold and the water is as crystal clear-blue-green as it gets.

Timmy is here to help us with All Points South, our feature documentary about surfing and environmental activism in Chile. He's doing really well after his infection and brain surgery, and he's ripping same as ever, but the doctors told him to avoid the tropics and only go surfing in cold water for a while to protect his sinuses and his health. So here he is, seeking out that elusive Chilean coldwater barrel.